The beginning of the adventure — sunrise on the trail, changing landscapes, and the first camp.
Distance: ~10.5 km (6.5 miles) from the trail head to Cottonwood Campground
Elevation change: Descent from ~8,250 ft to ~4,080 ft
Trail: North Kaibab Trail
This post is part of the travel series "Grand Canyon 4-day Rim-to-Rim Hike".
Before Dawn
At 5:00 AM, while the North Rim was still wrapped in darkness, we shouldered our packs and started walking. Rather than taking the shuttle to the North Kaibab Trailhead, we decided to hike the 2-mile trail from the lodge to the trailhead on foot. It added some distance, but it turned out to be one of the best decisions of the trip.
The trail from the lodge was entirely ours — no other hikers, no sounds but our boots and the occasional bird waking up. And then, as we walked, the sunrise came. Slowly, the sky shifted from deep blue to orange, and the forest around us lit up. It was a quiet, private moment before the main event, and it set the tone for the day.
Fun fact: one member of our group had actually hiked the lodge-to-trailhead trail the day before — round trip — just to see how far it was. He didn't know the distance beforehand and just went for it. That's the kind of energy you want on a trip like this.
The Trailhead
At the North Kaibab Trailhead, we took the obligatory group photos by the sign. Packs on, sticks in hand, grins on faces. This was it — the official start of the canyon traverse.
The Descent
The North Kaibab Trail drops into the canyon through a series of switchbacks carved into the rock. The descent was smooth, and we took it slow and steady to protect our knees. Hiking sticks were our best friends on this stretch — every downhill step with a loaded pack puts pressure on the joints, and the sticks helped absorb the impact.
The trail transforms as you descend. The first couple of miles wind through conifer forest — tall ponderosa pines and the cool mountain air of the North Rim. Then, gradually, the trees thin out, the air warms up, and the canyon walls close in.
Coconino Overlook
One of the first big viewpoints is Coconino Overlook, where the canyon opens up and you get a sense of the scale of what you're walking into. We stopped here for a water break, and spent a few minutes just taking it in.
Supai Tunnel
Further down, the trail passes through the Supai Tunnel — a short passage blasted through the red Supai sandstone. The exit of the tunnel offers another wide-open view of the canyon ahead. This is where the red rock really starts to dominate the landscape.
Manzanita Rest Area
The cliffs and rock formations along the trail leading to the Manzanita Rest Area were some of the most photogenic sections of the day. The red sandstone walls, the contrast with the blue sky, and the increasingly desert-like vegetation made every turn feel like a new postcard.
Arriving at Cottonwood Campground
By late morning, we reached Cottonwood Campground — our home for the night. The campground sits in a flat, shaded area along Bright Angel Creek, surrounded by cottonwood trees (hence the name).
We set up our tents, had lunch, and took a well-earned nap. The rest of the afternoon was reserved for a side hike to Ribbon Falls — which turned into something none of us expected. That story deserves its own article: A Grand Canyon Rescue: The Ribbon Falls Encounter.
Rainbow Falls
Trail Tips for This Section
- Start early. The upper portion of the trail is shaded by the canyon wall in the morning, keeping temperatures manageable.
- Use hiking sticks. The sustained downhill puts real stress on your knees, especially with a full pack.
- Take your time at the viewpoints. There's no rush. The campground isn't going anywhere.
- Bring enough water. There are water sources along the trail, but start with a full supply.
- Watch your footing on the switchbacks. The trail surface is generally good, but loose gravel on steep sections can be slippery.
The first day sets the rhythm for the whole trip. Walk slow, look up, drink water, repeat. The canyon rewards patience.
Next: A Grand Canyon Rescue: The Ribbon Falls Encounter
Photos by Rodrigo Senra, Nascif Abousah, Alexandre Da Silva, and Luciano Silva — fellow hikers and accidental photographers.
